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R. D Blackmore, author of Lorna Doone was educated at Blundell's
School in Tiverton, and also at Exeter College, Devon. Later
in life he was called to the Bar but was unable to continue
due to ill health. He married and later upon receiving an
inheritance moved to the country to write poetry and novels.
His third novel, Lorna Doone was an imaginative and exciting
tale of Exmoor. Today, the lush Devon landscape draws thousands
of fans of the 19th century novel each year, keen to relive
the moment Lorna is felled by a bandit's bullet at the altar.
The Tour
From Tiverton in mid Devon, travel north west along the A361
to South Molton, a quaint, historic market town. The prospective
bride of Tom Faggus was from South Molton and Tom lived and
had his smithy in tiny North Molton, 3km away. From here you
can travel on to Barnstaple at the head of the Taw estuary
(19km), which was once a ship-building and textile town. Its
13th century arched bridge crosses the River Taw in the centre
of the town and it was from this bridge that Tom Faggus, the
highwayman and cousin of John Ridd, leapt onto his horse during
one of his most dramatic escapes.
From Barnstaple take the A39 road towards Lynmouth, and visit
Arlington Court, now a National Trust property, which was
built in 1822. Here you will find a carriage museum with an
opportunity to take a ride through the 11 hectares of wonderful
gardens. Later continue on to Lynmouth passing through the
Blackmoor Gate, named after a local farmer who was a predecessor
of R. D. Blackmore. On arrival in Lynmouth, a picturesque
harbour village, take time to visit the fascinating water
operated cliff railway that connects the villages of Lymouth
and Lynton. A cliff walk from Lynton will take you to the
Valley of the Rocks. Mother Melldrum, who warned John Ridd
against the Doones sheltered from the wind and rain within
the Devil's Cheese Ring. The Cheese Ring is a strange pile
of rocks, set in the rugged valley, and so-called because
of its likeness to a giant cheese press.
From Lynmouth, continue on to Malmsmead, again along the
A39 and passing through Countisbury. One April John Ridd journeyed
on the higher road through 'Cosgate', or County Gate and through
the tiny hamlet of Countisbury. Badgworthy Water, on whose
bank stands a memorial stone to Blackmore, is bridged at the
tiny hamlet of Malmsmead, near the old house known as Lorna
Doone Farm, though only noted in the book as the home of the
church warden, Nicholas Snowe. To the south is Doone Valley.
Its hills rise to over 300 feet above the tiny stream. The
Doones built their encampment of single storey timber huts,
the framework filled with stones and peat and roofed with
turf and moss. At the higher, and western end is Doone Gate,
not actually a gate but the principal approach to the stronghold
where a large rock would have provided the basis for a guarded
entrance. To the eastern end is Waterslide. This was John's
favoured route into the Doone Valley where he first met Lorna
and later returned for their secret meetings. One terrible
winter the frozen Waterslide provided an escape route for
John and Lorna on a roped sled.
At Oare you can find the church where Lorna was shot at the
altar whilst marrying John Ridd. Continue along the A39 to
Porlock where once the sea came right up to the village, but
now stops 2 miles away at the harbour village of Porlock Weir.
In the novel, John Ridd paid one shilling for two large packages
of gunpowder and a piece of lead in Porlock. From Porlock
travel on to Minehead, a Victorian resort developed around
an old fishing port on the coast below Exmoor. Here you will
see former characterful fishermen's cottages standing beside
the 17th century harbour. From Minehead, travel along the
coast to Watchet. This was the scene of Lorna's kidnapping
by the outlaw Doones. At the 12th century church of St. Decuman's,
John Ridd sought the grave of Lorna's mother, the Countess
Dugal. From here a visit to the medieval village of Dunster.
A picture postcard village with a Yarn Market at one end of
the High Street and a castle at the other. Parts of the castle
date from the 13th century. It was here that Mrs Alexander
was inspired to write the hymn 'All things bright and beautiful'.
From Dunster take a drive to Exford en-route you will see
Dunkery Beacon, the highest point on Exmoor. The Beacon, used
by the Doones to light the way to their encampment, is now
marked by a cairn of stones. Exford is situated on the banks
of the river Exe and is overlooked by high moorland. This
is the parish where Tom Faggus contrived to join forces with
a group of men sent to apprehend him, tricked them into emptying
their guns and the robbed them at the point of his own.
From here you can travel south to Dulverton which lies on
the river Barle and has many old buildings of interest and
is also home of the Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre. All
Saints Church has a set of stained glass windows donated by
Sir George Williams, the founder of the YMCA, who was born
at nearby Ashway Farm. The ancient clapper bridge and Tarr
Steps are probably of Iron Age origins. This was the summer
home of Mother Meldrum, the wise woman of the story who warned
John Ridd against the Doones. Now continue south to Bampton
and pass through Exebridge. Lorna first entered the Exmoor
that is now Lorna Doone Country at Exebridge, and she and
her mother would doubtless have passed over the old stone
bridge on their coach ride from Bampton to Dulverton. Bampton
is an attractive riverside market town where in October the
famous Bampton Fair is held.
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